Journal›Gemstone Guide›Cut
Part 2

Evaluating
Fancy-Shaped
Diamonds

Fancy shapes don’t receive a cut grade from laboratories, which means visual assessment is essential. These key factors help reveal how well a fancy-shaped diamond will perform.

A collection of fancy-shaped diamonds — oval, pear, marquise, emerald, radiant, princess, cushion and asscher
Key Considerations
Outline
Well-balanced outline with pleasing length to width ratio.
Bow-Tie
Minimize the bow-tie effect for more even brightness.
Table Size & Placement
Table size should suit the shape, with centered placement.
Pavilion & Crown
Well-proportioned crown and pavilion help maximize light return.
Brightness
Look for strong overall brightness with minimal dark areas.
Symmetry
Good symmetry creates a balanced and pleasing appearance.
Face-Up Size Matters

Carat measures weight,
not visible diameter.

Two diamonds can weigh the same but look very different face up. Well-proportioned diamonds appear larger and deliver more presence for the same carat weight.

An ideal cut diamond with a larger face-up appearance
Ideal Cut
(larger face-up appearance)
A deeply cut diamond with a smaller face-up appearance
Deep / Poor Proportions
(smaller face-up appearance)
Hearts & Arrows

A signature of precision and optical symmetry.

Hearts & Arrows is a precision optical pattern seen in some exceptionally well-cut round brilliants. Arrows are visible from the crown (face-up view), while hearts are visible from the pavilion side—revealed under a scope.

This pattern can indicate strong optical symmetry and excellent light performance, but it is one indicator, not the whole story.

Optical Symmetry
High precision creates balanced patterns and consistent light return.
Seen in Round Brilliants
Found in some well-cut round diamonds—not all.
Arrows View (Face-Up)
Arrows pattern visible through the table (crown side).
Hearts View (Pavilion-Up)
Hearts pattern visible from the pavilion side under scope.
Arrows pattern seen face-up through the table of a hearts and arrows diamond
Arrows View
(Face-Up)
Hearts pattern seen from the pavilion side of a hearts and arrows diamond
Hearts View
(Pavilion-Up)
The OnlyRock Approach
We Review Proportions
We go beyond lab reports to evaluate proportions, light performance, and overall balance.
We Look Face Up
Our focus is on how the diamond looks to the eye—brightness, contrast, and presence.
We Recommend Wisely
We hand-select diamonds that deliver beauty, value, and lasting confidence.

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